Several 10mm bolts hold the splash shield in place on the driver side of the car – remove all of these.
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MIDYEAR/SHARK STARTER REPLACEMENT
It’s is very important that the new (or rebuilt) starter is an exact match for the one you’re replacing. For ex- ample, our project car shown here is a 1976 Corvette which had a Delco starter with an aluminum nose that needed to be replaced. The owner brought a replacement starter with him that had an iron nose, and, upon visual inspection, appeared to be virtually identical. After it was installed, however, when the ignition key was turned, the starter merely whirred but the engine didn’t turn over. A couple of shims were added, but still the solenoid gear didn’t engage with the flywheel. It was determined that even though the two starters outwardly looked the same, the solenoid gear shaft was different in that the iron nosed unit didn’t let the gear come as far forward as the aluminum nosed one did. Hence, the solenoid gear couldn’t engage with the flywheel. So that’s why you have to use the correct replacement when you’re dealing with starters. In the way of tools, you’ll need 9/16” and 5/8” sockets, a 6” extension bar, and a 3/8” socket or wrench for the solenoid electrical connection. Since you’ll be on your back doing this installation, a creeper will make things a bit more comfortable; if you don’t have a creeper, a flattened cardboard box will be more comfortable than laying on the bare pavement. It’s also easier to have all the necessary tools under the car where you can reach them, along with the replacement starter. So here we go!
After elevating the passenger side of the car, support it with a jackstand; never trust the trolley jack by itself.
Here’s the replacement starter, purchased from a local NAPA store. It’s extremely important to get an exact match.